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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.